'02 THE NO-GREENS YEAR
Years from now this Year of 2202 will be noted as having been, locally, at least here in Virginia, as a time when a marked shortage of summer-time rains resulted in a “greens-less” Fall.
Virginia is far enough south that such a condition can be a tragic thing.
It is tantamount to Vermont running out of maple syrup; Maine or Idaho having a poor potato crop, or the questing watermen finding fewer oysters in the Chesapeake Bay. When “greens” are in short supply, late summer and fall gastronomic treats become limited and longed for by devotees thereof. And, I am one of them.
It has not seemed at all proper this year that we have not have been inundated with more than ample supplies or green vegetables from garden plots around us. Usually, at this time of the year - starting the end of October - it is not uncommon for us to have extra supplies of Fall favorites stacked on the back porch, in the basement or taking any extra space remaining in that oft-times laughable addition to many homes called a “garage”.
The very term “greens” must be clarified or “translated”, it seems. South-born folks take their greens eating much more seriously than do other not born to the subtle touches of both the preparations for, and proper enjoyment thereof. By greens, I mean, the stalwart, fully grown leafy portions of a number of garden plants - most of which have a long and glorious history at home and abroad.
The more prominent ones among them include: collard greens, mustard greens, kale, which comes in several crinkle and non-crinkle types, and turnip greens are also included especially if one grows the type which is all leaf without turnips being appended. There are others, of course, and they need not be green in color - such as beet greens – the leafy portion the Red Beet plant.
The proper prepping of these vegetables for eating starts with neat harvesting, cut rather than torn from their roots. Then, they are all sent through “seven waters” before they are ready to steam or boil . Spinach, among them is know for hanging on to particles of grit as if holding on to the Earth it does not wish to leave, and kale, accordingly ritual preparation calls for: inspection and trimming away any blemishes before washing through seven changes of fresh, cold water. After six such washings you might think you have all possible grit is removed, but do the seventh one one to be certain. Family recipes vary as to additions to be made. Older folks simply dropped in a slab of “fatback” and put “'her on 't bile”. I like the fat back scored almost all the way through in half- inch sections so a small dab of back can be included when greens are served just by chipping section off with a fork, knife or even the ladle because it usually cooks well done. That's especially true with Collards which I have been mentioning first because they are my favorite. The rest of he family prefers Mustard Greens or Kale. Greens are always plural, you can't eat one green.
Add salt to your liking, of course. Pepper, too, if that suits your fancy, or garlic. All Southern cooks, even those who won't admit it, add sugar to just about everything they cook so if sugar turns up in your makings no one will complain.. A ham bone makes a good substitute fatback or side meat, too.
This does not, in any way, disparage such greens as Spinach, especially served raw after passing though seven waters, of course, and lettuce which is also “greens ”. They are more delicate. and suited to sandwich times. But, let's not overlook a generous serving of spinach sprinkled with vinegar and topped with sliced, hard-boiled eggs and a bit of salt. Cabbage, of course, is in a Greens league all by itself.
One word of caution! Make more than you think you'll need.. Greens cook down a lot and they increase the average appetite on sight!
A. L. M. November 5, 2002 [c693wds]
